It isn’t by accident that Michel Chapoutier is a name I remember, but rather something I owe to Jay McInerney.  In his book, A Hedonist in the Cellar: Adventures in Wine, Jay highlights the incredible character and nature of Michel Chapoutier, one of the most respected winemakers in France, with references to both Oedipus and Napoleon.  Perhaps these comparisons are far off, as Michel wrestled control of the vineyard away from both his father and brother, and drove the success of the winery through his training in vineyards and the implementation of biodynamics.  While these are impressive feats, perhaps the reason I am doomed to remember Chapoutier’s name though, is not for his incredible talent, but rather his penchant for utilizing sexual metaphors for wines.

For example, when referencing why he stopped filtering his wine, Jay quotes Chapoutier as saying, “Filtering wine is like screwing with a condom.”  This is not the typical thing you’re likely to associate fine wine culture with, but as with many of the stories in Jay’s book, the wine world proves out again and again that it is a place for lovers, fighters, and other obsessives.  With all of that in mind, seeing Marius by Michel Chapoutier 2014 (a Syrah-Grenache blend) was less than $10 meant it was a must try.

Sight: A deep purple, bordering on inky with an amethyst touch and hints of firm pink on the edges

Smell:  Blackberry brambles, hints of earthy rock, and raspberries all come forward.  The nose is slightly jammy, and hints of spice flirt throughout the background.  The fruit is strong, and leans toward black fruit.

Sip:  Moderate in body, it’s only a hint bright, and conveys a rather balanced start texturally and maintains it throughout, being slightly smooth.  Fruit punch like notes spring with fresh red berries and are met with heavier notes of plum skin and black berries.   Hints of spice continue throughout with touches of earth adding texture.

Savor:  A moderate amount of tannins start the ending, and channel the earthy notes wrapped up in brambly blackberries with hints of underripe berries.  The ending is long.

Marius by Michel Chapoutier is a very food friendly blend of Syrah and Grenache.  The earthiness of this wine is not to be understated, and makes up the backbone for the fleshier fruit to cling to.  While there is a certain spiciness here, it doesn’t really lead or strongly play.  That being said, for all the fruit, this is a dry, food ready red, and it should be approached as the sort of wine that looks for food.  As with anything by Chapoutier, the evidence of a strong wine makers hand is evidence in it’s balance.  A steal for $10.

Verdict:  Blackberries, Earth, Balanced, Moderate
Price: $10
France